Sunday, May 28, 2006

No green gills but memories are still a little hazy...

Now I know that this post´s attachment seems to be getting away a bit from Bolivia, I mean, it´s a booksale in Melbourne for god´s sake. However, I´m sweetly hungover from my lack of alcohol last night, and the greeting at Cerebritos - "My place" - by the owners. The funny little one swirling around, hands in the air as I walked in, in a "HE HAS RETURNED!!" kind of way and asking if I´d been viaje or trabajando and that made me feel all special! I also met a leatherclad death metal lead singer from La Paz called Felix ("I am the Cat"), who I think wanted to sleep with me after he finished his Terminator - a 2ft long glass of Vodka, something and something... very colourful! (pretty sure that "¿Estas solo?" means more than "do you want to drink together") . We agreed that the girls in the bar were pretty and that Metallica and AC/DC were worthy of pointer and little fingers being extended and shaken about, and ascertained whether I liked cigarettes ("¿Tu gusta cigarillos?") and I found my Spanish was good enough afterall to shimmy my way (and Felix´s) into a group of those girls playing the dice/drinking game so popular here and then them loving that I come from such a pais peligroso/dangerous country!! Felix left after making sure I promise to see his band at La Cueva next time I´m in La Paz. Can´t repeat the name of his band, if you´re interested, due to the certainty of offending some readers. He´s right - the girls are pretty, regardless of the motives for Felix to state such, but the Johnny Cash song rings through my head each night... "I find it very very easy to be true, I find myself alone when each day is through, yes I´ll admit that I¨m a fool for you, Because you´re mine, I walk the line...."

Anyhow, this attachment does relate to Bolivia - The DaVinci Code has been translated and is everywhere, including here *sigh*. It´s Sunday and I have to go to La Cancha (the biggest market in the universe!) and get a cheap shirt or two.

Love, Miguel.

p.s. the picture is one taken from the balcony of our hostel on Isla de Sol at 8am when the festival troupe mentioned in the Titicaca review decided to bring their merriment to the world!









MEDIA RELEASE - MEDIA RELEASE - MEDIA RELEASE - MEDIA RELEASE

Bookshop to attempt Da Vinci Code world record

A Carlton bookshop is hoping to capitalise on the critical backlash against The Da Vinci Code at its Big Red Book Fair this June.

On Saturday 17 June, Trades Hall"s New International Bookshop will attempt a Guinness World Record for the largest collection of unwanted copies of the Dan Brown bestseller.

"We've already received great support from the public," said Bookshop Co-ordinator Seb Prowse, "but we must clarify this is quite separate from other attempts being made. We are not trying to stop people reading, and we are certainly not about to start burning books."

A source close to the Bookshop suggested The Da Vinci Code was "too lightweight to start a proper fire".

Mr. Prowse reacted angrily to suggestions the record attempt was a gimmick to promote a title whose sales had finally begun to drop off. The recent cinema release of an adaptation starring Tom Hanks had opened up a new market, he suggested.

"In today's world, who can afford to sit through a movie that long?" he asked. "Our message is simple. Save time: read the book.

"In another industry first, Mr Prowse plans to use the Big Red Book Fair to launch an entirely new product line: Books Not Written by Dan Brown.

"The public will decide whether this initiative sinks or swims," said Mr. Prowse. "We have a small window of opportunity before the publication of Brown's next book, and we need your support. Anyone still in possession of books from the pre-Da Vinci period should contact us immediately.

"The Big Red Book Fair11am Saturday 17 and Sunday 18 June Trades Hall, cnr Lygon & Victoria Sts, Carlton

For more information, or to donate books, phone 9662 3744 or email nibs@nibs.org.au

MEDIA RELEASE - MEDIA RELEASE - MEDIA RELEASE - MEDIA RELEASE

Saturday, May 27, 2006

Mother´s of the world unite!


Well, today is Mother´s Day in Bolivia and I wondered why it fell on this day, May 27, and not on a Sunday at least like ours. It was explained to me that the day was chosen to coincide with the Heroínas de la Coronilla festival which commemorates the women and children who defended this fair city during the Revolutionary war of 1812 (it´s necessary to specify by year which revolution one is talking about round these parts for obvious reasons). The nasty little Spaniard Jose Manuel Goyeneche got a nasty surprise when he and his conquistadores attempted to sneak into Cochabamba and take it while all the men were away fighting in Oruro. The photo is the one I took this morning, with women, men, children and ice cream sellers, high on the hill of San Sebastian, behind the bus station and pretty rough around the edges, (making it the most dangerous place in Cochabamba day or night). If you zoom in on the middle you´ll see the women all guts and glory ready for combat. Other sculptures around the monument show a heated congregation of women around a table discussing strategy, and the women en masse going hammer and tongs (for that may be all that had as far as I could tell) toward the surprised mounted Spanish forces. As usual there´s a strong religious sentiment in the Christ image atop *sigh*. Oh well.

I had an English class scheduled for last night that was cancelled due to Mother´s Day. It´s a pretty hefty affair here, where mums get all the attention their little bambinos can lavish on them. As I made my way into the city on the bus and toward San Sebastian I saw dozens of extravagantly decorated cakes being balanced with great skill by lads and ladies as they also pushed their bicycles, kept their kids off the street, dodged traffic and all the while resisting the temptation of what clearly must have been going through their minds (well, it was going through mine) - slapping the cake into the face of an unsuspecting other ala so many Bert Newton and Graham Kennedy sketches.

And why do mums get so much attention today? I had a little think when I realised that my lunch wasn´t ready today and I had to enjoy myself elsewhere. My host mum works her bum off the rest of the year, as does every other woman here in South America, and much more than many mums need care to think about in the west. Is this day merely a bigger sorry than what we (western men and children) need to muster up for our overworked mothers due to the enormousness of the task of being a mother here? Who knows. Another thing I won´t be here long enough to be certain about.

On the way back down the hill I was called out to by an old fellow walking with his Cholita wife and accosted by a barrage of Quechuan which I understood none of, let alone his Spanish, which he tried on after his jokes about the size of my shoes and wanting to try them on. He was jovial and his wife chuckled as we chatted about whether I had kids (for they had eight!), whether Fiona was a Cholita woman and wore a skirt bulked out with undergarments and why on earth was she so far away... We had a good time strolling down the hill, and I wished Mrs. a Feliz Dia de Madre, and fondly said goodbye.

This got me thinking about the recent spate of suggestions and warnings given me by people who "know more because I´ve been here longer", that all Bolivians appear nice at the start but look out because they´ll be after something sooner or later as if the niceness is only a precursor for gringo exploitation. I thought what the couple I spoke to must have wanted from me. Nothing. On my way to and from the city I was standing scrunched up and bent very much over, or squatting on the floor on Micro Buses in order to not look so silly (no seats available), and both times, when someone vacated a seat I was poked and pointed to the new spot for more comfort by benevolent women and men. They couldn´t have given a toss about what they could extract from me, except a smile and a gracias. People who "know more than me" usually don´t. Granted, one of these cynics had been shuffled into a fake police car and held up at gunpoint along the Prado where I often walk via. I don´t deny bad things happen here and I´m not letting my bag leave my sight or out of my grasp but I´m going to let people help me if they can. I´ll recap on this in a few months and see how I feel then.

Feliz Dia de Madre!

Your FNBC.

Friday, May 26, 2006

The La Paz/Titicaca review.



Well, I didn´t sit on the left side of the plane to Cbba (where I now sit happily in my cheap internet shop across the road from my house). I took some photos of the incredible montañas giving in with a steady high altitude sigh to the flat plains in the west, but the snow capped peaks almost scraping the left wing was only sighted filtered through the various emotions of the other passengers.

But Lake Titicaca! What a beautiful place. Our first night (Krista, Sam and I) away from La Paz was Copa... Copacabana! (*hears the music!* "music and passion were always in fashion at the Copa....don't fall in love".) It was a glut of tourists on their way onto, or away from, the Isla de Sol, but there were more vegetarian restaurants than you could poke a celery stick at, and the restaurant we ate in was so cosy and warm and friendly... Ariel at the front deserves every tip we didn´t give him.

It´s going to be a long list to the Lonely Planet when I finish. The notes about the "short cut" along the Inca pathway from Copacabana to Yampupata should have mentioned the propensity for going along a track that leads a long and arduous way up a mountain instead of the right way... Regardless when we reached the top we were thrilled at the view, and the sunkissed (my hands got very blistery red - silly me) ridge was a great place for lunch. And I still dribble with delight and desire for the bread roll, home made cheese and dried fig lunches we enjoyed. The two dogs that followed us the entire 6 and a half hours from Copa seemed nonplussed at the journey, the teats of the female flapping as she walked, spraying milk this way and that.

We arrived on the island from Yampupata after being consistently offered a cheaper ride from various locals (we didn´t know this yet) and were accosted by a group of adorable kids on the boat landing offering their respective homes and hotels for the night. We were going to camp but the night was far too cold and it was getting late and the room the overexcited 11 year old Gabrielle showed us was so very warm. The night was given over to an unusually bad piece of music that sliced it´s way very loudly into our sleep every 40 minutes or so, for about 10 minutes at a time. We thought perhaps that some kids, having calculated the exact time of our falling asleep each time would press "play" on their stereo. As we found out when we got up in the morning the Tinko(?) Festival was on that night... and on... and on... and on, until at 8am they burped out of their venue and proceeded up the beach and right beside our hostel, 5 tubas, trumpets, panpipes, and a bloody big drum and Cholitas whirling around in their skirts so very artistically. Everyone full to the gills on Chicha and looking so very jolly.

The next day we saw the Templo del Inca (where you see Sam, Krista and I pictured) which was surprisingly eery and satisfying given the expected loss of sheen from decades of tourism...

The climb over the top of the island gave incredible views, and was incredibly hard, giving me a very firm impression of Krista and Sam´s state of endurance and fitness, their bags being significantly heavier than mine.

The second day we scurried down the track to the south side of the island (after staying in the Hostal Templo del Sol in very touristy Yumani) to find the Pilko Kaina ruins which were more interesting than the first as this had it´s stone roof still intact and the maze of rooms was fun to explore (the picture with the lake through the stone window was from here).

Oh, gotta go, a couple of marathon entries.

Got the ferry back, got back to La Paz, had dinner at Al Amir and stuffed ourselves, and Krista and Sam saw me off at the bus stop to the airport.

Cena time.

Love, your FNBC.

Thursday, May 25, 2006

Ooooh! What´s that fuzzy smokey flashbacky stuff ...?












A bit of a retrospective. Back to the salt plains. That´s me. I´m a star (get it... star jump...)
And lining up for a shot that´ll put me in the running for the world cup (whatever that is...)

In La Paz and more stunning photos and information of an interesting nature soon!

Love, your friendly neighbourhood Bolivian Correspondent.

p.s. photos supplied by the amazingly talented Auntie Jane and Nick, the new Melbournians.

Saturday, May 20, 2006

Nah, guess... come on...

Hey!

Guess where I am?

The hills are killing me! What idiot thought of putting a city in a bunch of hills where there isn´t any oxygen??!

It´s pretty though, cobbled streets, lots of cholitas with their magnificently life-giving 7am juice and bread, and I stumbled into the witches market, and yes, I´ve seen llama foetus' before but not one´s that are fully furred up. It´s a little disturbling, but you never know - I might stay here and start up a business that I need a llama to offer to the good-luck-in-your-endeavours God.

I got a call from Krista yesterday in the 3 minutes of space that I was home between two English classes. What luck! She and Sam will be here in hilly La Paz tomorrow lunchish. Very excited!!

La Paz then, yes: that´s where I found myself this morning at 5.30am after being flogged off onto a bus that they guaranteed would be spacious enough for me (my stupid: I asked for a bus cama (bed bus) and they and their lower price talked their way into my acceptance. It was fine, just sore from the crampedness. Luckily when most everyone got off at the station, I stayed on (thinking ... well, I don´t know really) and the bus drove around the corner and let the rest of us (about 6) sleep till about 7am! That was cool. I was the only gringo (as far as I could tell) at the 2am stop of six buses for pee pee and a huevo con queso sandwich... mmm... and you know, I felt so comfortable. I think I must have looked comfortable too, because I was far less noticed (in my mind). I´m still a full on whitey though and my constant conditioning won´t let me forget it for now.

My camera didn´t work this morning when I was trying to take a photograph of a group of VERY excited and obliging Ayacucho performers outside the police station. It worked after I took the battery out and back in again. Might be the altitude or the friiiiiii.... eezing morning. That´s all about that.

The glorious sun however, at first neglecting the city and kissing the cuboid entanglement of abodes on the lip of this big ice-cream scoop, was nothing short of inspiring.

My own abode is a backpackers about which the LP warns to keep an eye on your stuff... Am I an idiot? I wangled a single room for the same price of a dorm though, so at least there´s that more security... Wangled? Me? I don´t think that´s going to be the regular direction of wanglation.

I´m here till Friday morning when I hope to fly over what is supposed to be the most incredible view from a plane in the world. I´m supposed to sit on the left side... (yes, yes... Lonely Planet ... goes and self flaggelates... again!)

More soon, after Lake Titicaca. And a picci or two.

Your friendly neighbourhood CB.

Wednesday, May 17, 2006


Yep, this has nothing to do with Bolivia (or does it!?) but it had to be posted... I´m getting lazy about my promises.

Tuesday, May 16, 2006

George, George, George of the Journalists...

I promised myself that I´d not insert articles without direct correlation to any of my own thoughts. Well, officially, that last sentence contained a thought on the topic, and I just had to show this one: George Monbiot kicks major political arse!

When two poor countries reclaimed oilfields, why did just one spark uproar?

The outcry over Bolivia's renationalisation and the silence over Chad's betrays the hypocrisy of the critics

George Monbiot
Tuesday May 16, 2006The Guardian

Civilisation has a new enemy. He is a former coca grower called Evo Morales, who is currently the president of Bolivia. Yesterday he stood before the European parliament to explain why he had sent troops to regain control of his country's gas and oil fields. Bolivia's resources, he says, have been "looted by foreign companies", and he is reclaiming them for the benefit of his people. Last week, he told the summit of Latin American and European leaders in Vienna that thecorporations which have been extracting the country's fossil fuels would not be compensated for these seizures.

You can probably guess how this has gone down. Tony Blair urged him to use his power responsibly, which is like Mark Oaten lecturing the Pope on sexual continence. Condoleezza Rice accused him of "demagoguery". The Economist announced that Bolivia was "moving backwards". The Times, in a marvellously haughty leader, called Morales "petulant", "xenophobic" and "capricious", and labelled his seizure of the gas fields "a gesture as childish as it is eye-catching".

Never mind that the privatisation of Bolivia's gas and oil in the 1990s was almost certainly illegal, as it took place without the consent of congress. Never mind that - until now - its natural wealth has only impoverished its people. Never mind that Morales had promised to regain national control of Bolivia's natural resources before he became president, and that the policy has massivesupport among Bolivians. It can't be long before Donald Rumsfeld calls him the new Hitler and Bush makes another speech about freedom and democracy being threatened by freedom and democracy.

This huffing and puffing is dressed up as concern for the people of Bolivia. The Financial Times fretted about the potential for "mismanagement and corruption". The Economist warned that while the government "may get richer, its people are likely to grow even poorer". The Times lamented that Morales had "set back Bolivia's development by 10 years or so ... the most vulnerable groups will find that an economic lifeline is soon removed from their reach". All this is humbug.

Four days before Morales seized the gas fields - on May 1 - an even bigger expropriation took place in an even poorer country: the African republic of Chad. When the Chadian government reasserted control over its oil revenues, not only did it ensure that an intended lifeline for the poor really wasremoved from their reach, but it also brought the World Bank's claims to be using oil as a social welfare programme crashing down in flames. So how did all those bold critics of Morales respond? They didn't. The whole hypocritical horde of them looked the other way.

The World Bank decided to fund Chad's massive oil scheme in 2000, after extracting a promise from the government of Idriss Deby - which has a terrible human rights record - that the profits would be used for the benefit of the country's people. Deby's administration passed a law allocating 85% of the government's oil revenues to education, health and development, and placing 10% "in trust for future generations". This, the bank said, amounted to "an unprecedented system of safeguards to ensure that these revenues would be used to finance development in Chad".

Without the World Bank, the project could not have gone ahead. It was asked to participate by Exxon, the leading partner in the project, toprovide insurance against political risk. The bank's different lending arms stumped up a total of $333m, and the European Investment Bank threw in another $120m. The oil companies (Exxon, Petronas and Chevron) started drilling 300 wells in the south of the country, and building a pipeline to a port in Cameroon, which opened in 2003.

Environmentalists predicted that the pipeline would damage the rainforests of Cameroon and displace the indigenous people who lived there; that the oil companies would consume much of Chad's scarce water and that an influx of oil workers would be accompanied by an influx of Aids. They also argued that subsidising oil companies in the name of social welfare was a radical reinterpretation of the bank's mandate. As long ago as 1997, the Environmental Defence Fund warned that the government of Chad would not keep its promises to use the money for alleviating poverty. In 1999, researchers from Harvard Law School examined the law thegovernment had passed, and predicted that the authorities "have little intention of allowing it to affect local practice".

In 2000, the oil companies gave the government of Chad a "signing bonus" of $4.5m, which it immediately spent on arms. Then, at the beginning of 2006, it simply tore up the law it had passed in 1998. It redefined the development budget to include security, seized the fund set aside for future generations, and diverted 30% of the total revenues into "general spending", which, in Chad, is another term for guns. The World Bank, embarrassed by the fulfilment of all the predictions its critics had made, froze the revenues the government had deposited in London and suspended the remainder of its loans. The Chadian government responded by warning that it would simply shut down the oil wells. The corporations ran to daddy (the US government) and, on April 27, the bank caved in. Its new agreement with Chad entitles Deby to pretty well everything he hasalready taken.
The World Bank's attempts to save face are almost funny. Last year, it said that the scheme was "a pioneering and collaborative effort ... to demonstrate that large-scale crude oil projects can significantly improve prospects for sustainable long-term development". In other words, it was a model for oil-producing countries to follow. Now it tells us that the project in Chad was "less a model for all oil-producing countries than a unique solution to a unique challenge". But, however much it wriggles, it cannot disguise the fact that the government's reassertion of control is a disaster both for the bank and for the impoverished people it claimed to be helping. Since the project began, Chad has fallen from 167th to 173rd on the UN's human development index, and life expectancy there has dropped from 44.7 to 43.6 years. If, by contrast, Morales does as he has promised and uses the extra revenues from Bolivia's gas fields in the same way as Hugo Chávezhas used the money from Venezuela's oil, the result is likely to be a major improvement in his people's welfare.

So, on the one hand, you have a man who has kept his promises by regaining control over the money from the hydrocarbon industry, in order to use it to help the poor. On the other, you have a man who has broken his promises by regaining control over the money from the hydrocarbon industry, in order to buy guns. The first man is vilified as irresponsible, childish and capricious. The second man is left to get on with it. Why? Well, Deby's actions don't hurt the oil companies. Morales's do. When Blair and Rice and the Times and all the other apologists for undemocratic power say "the people", they mean the corporations. The reason they hate Morales is that when he says "the people", he means the people.

· The references for this and all George Monbiot's recent columns can be found at www.monbiot.com

Busy as a deadly little abeja!

Well, any fears that I might be contributing to the total destruction of every South American culture by infecting them with the Imperial Language through my English lessons seem to have dissipated... Far out, when it rains... I´ve been rushed by a throng of English classes. This won´t be very good for my Spanish lessons, but at least I´ll learn more about English!!

Schedule:
Monday, Wednesday and Friday 8.30am to 9.30am
Monday, Wednesday and Friday 10am to 12pm
Monday, Wednesday and Friday 4pm to 6pm
Monday through to Friday 7pm to 9pm

That´s 28 hours! More than I´ve worked in years!! Not sure what will become of me. I think I can sneak Spanish in Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays.

I´m off to La Paz on Saturday through to Friday the 26th to meet up with Krista and Sam who arrive there on Sunday. That´s so incredibly exciting. It´ll be so good to see them... very good. I´m excited. But the transport strikes could be a problem. The companies don´t want to pay their taxes, but the government are saying they have to. That´s my rundown at the moment. I´m not sure what the rest of the story is (any enlightenment?), but it´s clear that it might be a tad difficult to get around at the moment so pray to Pachamama that I continue with the good luck I´ve been having lately...

I went to the Oficina de Migration today to extend my visa (and yes, if you´re anal enough to count the days from the receipt of my original 30 day visa you will work out that I´m an overstayer of 3 days... LOCK ME UP IN MARIBYRNONG!!! The whole thing has to do with travel and if you are party to the (chiefly family based)fallacy that me and travel don´t mix, then you´ll not be surprised and even a little dissappointed in me... but it only cost me an extra 30 Bolivianos...30 that I could have used far more efficiently mind, but only 30 nonetheless ($5AU). It´s lucky I WAS late, because while I was literally on my knees (due to my height, not my near desperate Spanglish state) in front of a very quickly talking solo languager, I was assisted by a lovely young Bolivian/Canadian lass who, was incredibly helpful, her mother and brother also going beyond the call of duty. Staying with me for 20 minutes after their own affairs had been settled (for the day) they gave me their phone number, drove me home, and told me to call them for any other help or just to go out and have someone to talk to... Well! They´re leaving back for Canada in two months, after five years here hating the place, the corruption, the lack of opportunity, the non-Canadianess of it all...

Now to get ready for my English classes tomorrow... *shakes his head with the woeful sorrow that can only be put to ease by friends´ emails saying that if it wasn´t me they´d just learn English from someone else anyway...*

Love to you all,

Miguel.

Patiño needed a good hard kick in the pants!

The disgusting wealth of Simón Patiño is beyond what almost every other person living in Bolivia could dream of, now of course, but so much MORE back in 1920s when this monstrosity was built on the broken backs of tin miners and whatever other pie the scoundrel had his finger in. He was the 3rd richest man on the planet at the time. I took the tour through what was the mansion he built for himself and family (but never lived in because he had a heart attack and died) and what is now a cultural centre where his family seem to be making amends with art scholorships and assistance with libraries and other stuff. Quite fascinating in a sick kind of way...

What does anybody think?
This ice cream seems to be a popular choice for people who want to emulate the West´s Street´s Magnum ice creams, but it falls incredibly short of the quality of a Magnum, I´m dissappointed to say. The Milenium Blanco is similar to the white chocolate Magnum, but to bite into it brings a quick arrival past the thin initial layer and into the far too light and watery centre. Now I´m not saying that the Australian Millennium counterpart is light and watery, with a thin hide, but it was fun to photograph the two together. I love you Millennium!

Let´s see what my Cochabambino detractors have to say about that little whinge...

Saturday, May 13, 2006

This one´s for Fiona.


This little lassie (Hannah) was in control of the backpackers that my friends from NZ/Aust. are staying at in Cbba. She´s not quite in the danger zone, but she did like to bite!

"¡Anybody in the road gets knocked over!"

I reminisced like crazy yesterday as I negotiated my way across the ginormous roundabout north of the ciudad principal when that cloudy memory haze began to appear in front of me (not a haze you need right there in the middle of cars all going the wrong direction) and there I was, back at St. Mary´s Primary School, grade 2, and Keiran Glynn, (yep, I´m naming names here! How unethical!!!) Warren McKaskill, Steven Hazel, Damian McGrath, Christopher Fladgate, Michael McLeish, Simon Healy and even sometimes ME would be marching around the school yard, right at you, arm in arm, shouting "Anybody in the road gets knocked over! Anybody in the road gets knocked over! Anybody in the road gets knocked over!" and heaven help anybody who was in the way... and then that haze went away and the car horn said exactly the same thing. That´s all.

Ridiculous imprisonment by request of the powerful... again, and STILL!




Well, I had a wonderful time when I accidentally ran into the small but riotously (not a riot!) passionate protest that was just beginning outside the Chilean Consulate near my home (and, coincidentally in the same building as the English lessons I give!!). The protest was part of an international campaign demanding the release of the indigenous Mapuche political prisoners in Chile who have been on a hunger strike for over 55 days now.

Luckily two of the young women who work at my favourite café close by were very much part of the protest (I knew they were radical lefties by the look in their eye when they prattled on in Spanish... no, they speak a little English and we´ve talked of the injustice and bullshit that goes on in countries, theirs, mine and everywhere). They didn´t need to explain the situation to me, but I had to explain my allegiance to them, and they got excited that some Australians are sympathetic enough to stage their own protests at the Chilean consulate in Australia. I have permission to publish the following photos. The top one with the "sticks" was from a demonstration of an indigenous ceremony in Chile during my time there (where I attended the protest in Santiago de Chile soon after I arrived). Hope you enjoy, and hope you get angry and active. (You can get active in Australia - check out http://www.stopwarcoalition.org/news/news_items.php?shownews=1758)

Thursday, May 11, 2006

Brains... I´m right wing afterall!

Thought this was pretty interesting...

From http://www.viewzone.com/bicam.html

LEFT BRAIN FUNCTIONS
uses logicdetail oriented
facts rule
words and language
present and past
math and science
can comprehend
knowing
acknowledges order/pattern
perception
knows object name
reality based
forms strategies
practical
safe

RIGHT BRAIN FUNCTIONS
uses feeling
"big picture" oriented
imagination rules
symbols and images
present and future
philosophy & religion
can "get it" (i.e. meaning)
believes
appreciates spatial perception
knows object function
fantasy based
presents possibilities
impetuous
risk taking

Check it out.

I recently scored amazingly well in a simple test to discover how well I used my right side, and so, in view of this, (not really but it did coincide) I´ve decided to take a class (if my first visit FEELS right) with a bunch of local kids, in disadvantaged areas, at a library reading to them and then (ack!) doing a creative task with them!!! Now I know that lots of my friends (and my work) are going to go nuts knowing how I used to shirk the Young Person´s Group at the Railway House. Let´s see how I go...

There.

Love it with my ankles around my ears!

Took my first Trufi last night getting home from my first English lesson to three Korean kids out in Tiquipaya, a very northwest Barrio of Cochabamba. Trufis are taxis that charge about the same as a city bus but pack as many people in as possible. I found myself in the front seat, which was nice for a while; just me and the grumpy old driver (no wonder: he couldn´t see much of the road for the very large cosmetic banner across his windscreen!). But then, as the back seat filled up and there was only room for one more in the front I began praying that I didn´t have to ride shotgun... Then someone else hailed... and I found myself struggling between the driver fondling my leg in an attempt to change gears and the portly fellow who dragged his kitchen sink (or whatever was in his bulging bolsa) in to fondly stroke my cheekbones...

It was fun though: "Oh!! Globos! Pare! Pare por favor!!"

And only uno cincuenta!

There you go.

Out.

Wednesday, May 10, 2006

Who wants a Bowler?

From grief to galoshin!


Right, a little update. Last Sunday I sat in a cafe, of a choice of millions in Quillacollo, 13ks from Cbba and market day on Sundays (one of the more amazing market places I´ve visited thus far (La Cancha in Cochabamba is by far the craziest! - although I haven´t found the animal blackmarket section yet (and I don´t want to!))), and shed some tears over the situation that I´d found myself in. No, not a broken leg, or a broken camera, but a broken heart from all of you that I miss brought forth with gusto while I was trying to "expose myself" to local ways. I was left so alone when I got off the bus from Cbba, with only the stares and giggles and Spanish jokes as my companion as I strolled the streets realising how much I hated market places... I wasn´t feeling particularly strong and in the back corner of the upstairs section of the cafe I wanted to be home again. My diary got a hell of a blasting from the vitriol I felt then for everything South American and everything to do with the "virtues" of a challenge.

ANYway, then, on my way back out to the crowded streets (looking, I´m sure, as if I was headed for the gallows) I sighted a parrot at the top of the stairwell that just knew how to pose so out came my camera and she was a natural! Then two kids doing their homework downstairs spotted me and were curious about the camera, and I showed them the photos. They were ecstatic to see their own images after they proudly stood at attention for their photo to be taken.

I don´t know how it happened, but when I walked back out into the street, I took a deep breath and felt an incredible strength, and... was it joy? I saw the Cholita with the stall of Bowler hats for sale, and although she wasn´t about to allow herself in the photo it was a pure thrill to take a photo of the hats. And then it just didn´t stop. A dozen kids sate with me as I ate the crazy fluffy sweet stuff with jelly. Some of them spoke English and I even had the guts to try my Spanish again. Little Brian just sat there in front of me, hands under his chin, watching me eat. He was very cute. The woman I´m pictured with even proposed ... something to me (was it marriage or just a fling?) as her friends insisted on kisses and kept pushing her into my path... We all had a great time together around the capsicums and the squash, as the language barrier broke down with the force of smiles and friendliness. I could barely get back onto one of the countless buses for Cbba, except that it was packed with colourful aguayos (that carryall that Cholas wear) and I found myself empathising with heads banged on the roof, as eye contact was made from all over the bus, and more laughs and in the end I couldn´t believe the irrepressible smile on my face dissipating the fears and insecurities that welled in me just hours earlier.

Anyway, there I am, perhaps with my future wife (not sure what I agreed to with that photo - whatever it was it was met with unquenchable frivolity and curiosity).

I´ll no doubt be back there for the Fiesta de la Vergin de Urkupiña in August, the biggest celebration of the year in the Cbba department (region), and probably before.

Sweet, sweet asphyxiation...

I must say, I haven´t been particularly banal of late. For example, I haven´t told anyone how, on my way back from Spanish lessons each of the 4 days a week I have them, I always try to steer clear of the delectable sweetness of whatever it is that the Cholita is selling because it´s covered in bees, and I haven´t yet discovered whether, as an adult, I´m still dangerously allergic to them (the bees, not the Cholitas, or the sweets). Yet at the same time, I can´t hold back, and always take a closer look (perhaps because she´s so incredibly close to the traffic that as I pass it´s a decision about what´s more dangerous to be close to. I might even buy one one day and ask the woman "Como se llama?" for both her name and the sweet.

We´ll see.

Sunday, May 07, 2006

Another plea for justice.

When I first arrived in South America I was lucky to be able to take part in a political action that I didn´t know much about until I was interviewed by some English speaking guys making a documentary about the injustices that still reign deep in Chile (where I was encouraged to wax lyrical about our own "sorry" state of indigenous affairs).

The photos here in Santiago, near Los Heroes Train Station, are of that indigenous rally demanding the release of political prisoners arrested for opposing mining on indig. land. The rally was held also in solidarity with the hunger strike that the four prisoners had just begun.

Now it´s really REALLY important for people to pressure Chile´s government and embassies to listen to reason.

Read on:

MAPUCHE POLITICAL PRISONERS IN RISK OF DYING AFTER 56 DAYS OF HUNGER STRIKE. They need our support.

Patricia Troncoso, Juan Marileo, Jaime Marileo y Juan Huenulao are four MAPUCHE people who have completed 55 days in total hunger strike in Chile with the objective of achieving a review of the judgement under which they were sentenced to 10 years and one day plus the payment of US $791,000 (423 million Chilean pesos) in compensation to the multinational “Miminco” forestry (logging) company. Their lives are now in danger. The four were convicted in a mockery court (using masked witnesses, distorted voices, etc) accused of terrorism under a legislation brought about decades ago by the Pinochet dictatorship and now used by the current “democratic” administration in Chile. They were accused of terrorism for demonstrating against the theft of Mapuche land by multinational forestry companies which have illegally confiscated huge extents of Mapuche territories. Today, a campaign is been organised around the world in order to save their lives and demand the immediate end of the persecution against this indigenous nation. We will join this campaign with actions in Australia, New Zealand and Japan. The Chilean government has let off the thief and murderer Augusto Pinochet in impunity but incarcerates the Mapuche for defending their land.

FREE MAPUCHE POLITICAL PRISONERS IN CHILE NOW!

HANDS OFF MAPUCHE LAND!

Show your Solidarity this Monday 8, 12 noon at the steps of Australia´s Melbourne Parliament House, Spring St. City.

Join us in this demand, thanks in solidarity

ALSO:

Please find time to take action to support the Chile Indigenous People-MAPUCHE- in hunger strike by taking actions, sending letters, faxes and/or e-mails to the Chilean authorities and international human rights organisations. Many of these atrocities have their roots in the expropriation of ancestral indigenous lands by forestry multinational plantation companies, large land owners and the Chilean State; please support the Mapuche people in their struggle. You can send you own letter (addresses and suggestions below)

If you are interested in make interviews, get more information or get involved in supporting this campaign please call 9481 2273 or 0402 754818,

thanks In Solidarity

Chilean Popular & indigenous Networkchilenet@bigpond.comredchilena@bigpond.com

We suggest writing letters to the Chilean embassy and consulates in your country. To find out the contact details for the Chilean Embassies in your country visit: http://www.minrel.cl/pages/misiones/index.html To send letters to the Chilean Embassy in Australia please addressed it to:

To Her Excellency Michelle Bachellet Jeria
President of the Republic of Chile
Palacio del La Moneda,
Santiago,
Chile
PH: (+562) 690 40 20;
Fax: (+562) 699 03 94

Chilean Embassy and Consulates in Australia addresses

Embassy of Chile in Australia
Ambassador Mr. Cristobal Valdes
P.O. BOX 69
RED HILL ACT 2603
PH: (61-2) 6286 2430, fax: (61-2) 6286 1289
E-mail: chilemb@embachile-australia.com

Consulate General of Chile in Melbourne
Mr. Ignacio Concha
Level 13, 390 St Kilda Road
Melbourne 3004
PH: 9866 4041
E-mail: cgmelbourne@chile.com.au

Consulate General of Chile in Sydney
18th floor, AXA centre
44 Market Street
Sydney NSW 2000
PH: (61-2) 9299 2533
Fax: (61-2) 9299 2868
E-mail: cgsydney@rivernet.com.au

Chilean and International Organisations write to:

Permanent Mission of before the United Nations in Geneva:
58, Rue de Moillebeau 1211,
Geneva,
Postal Code 332.
Fax:+4122.734.52.97 Ph: +4122.919.88.00
E-mail: mission.chile@ties.itu.int

Security; what does it mean?

Earlier I mentioned the tall dogboxes that are pitched about the most affluent parts of the city. I don´t know much about the situation as yet, but it stinks to high heaven to me. All I know is that security isn´t like this in Australia, and why? Because we have more real security in that there isn´t as much crime because there´s not as large a gap between rich and poor, and that comes down to eons of much poorer governmental management/dictatorships than Australia´s which is saying something!

I´m not saying that we don´t need a direct response to crime. If I were getting mugged and the security guard on the corner came and stopped my muggers from serious damage, at that moment he/she wouldn´t be part of the system that needs major changes. He/she would be the person that just saved my life. Sometimes I share my nightly desserts on my walk home with the guards (I have to buy a spare pack of chocolate biscuits!) because I assume they´re in a tight spot (literally) and they look lonely and tired and they´re friendly when I pass. And I live in a house that has a really high wall that double locks and all that (and has a security guard at the corner!) so yes, I´m all for protecting my stuff from ladrones (a Spanish word that I know very well from people´s cautions to me). I don´t want to be robbed again, but I´m criticising the situation where only those who can afford it get the security they want, while on a deeper level those with broken glass walls and shotgun wielding security are far less safe in the long run when more than half the population don´t have direct security.

My gripe with the security is that the implementation of what should be the more accountable police force (although police forces in their current incarnation (including Australia´s) aren´t proven to be very accountable) would be a far better option. And in a better society with a totally accountable (even elected!) police force, I would assume the ideals of the day would include more healthy options for the guys who are currently getting paid peanuts to keep wealthier people safe, and for those who make more from being in theiving gangs than in helpful, fulfilling professions.

I know that the government contribute something to the security box idea, but Wakenhut, and SIS and other big old security knobs advertise all over most of the dogboxes I see. I called them dogboxes because they´re such an insulting substitute for what should be a much more redeeming job.

I wish the government would invest in the security of all people´s safety, but I know it´s an enormous job, that I don´t understand yet, and can´t fully by virtue of my gringo-ness, and I´ve been here only a month and I´ll have more of this sorted out soon, hopefully when I make contact with the guys at www.cedib.org/accionandina/. They do some good stuff. More soon.

Thursday, May 04, 2006

No child in detention, ANYWHERE!

This blog is supposed to be about Bolivia and this entry may look like it´s not. Well it is. The reason I´m over here is not because I want to be separated from Australia for 18 months. Among other things I want to make Australia closer to me than ever, an inseparable connection. One of the ways this will happen will be that people from other countries will be more real to me when I read about them or see them in the media. Another way is that slowly I´m realising the truth in what I´ve had a faith in for a long time. That´s Gaia. When something happens to a child in detention in Australia it happens to me. My empathy comes from an integral, physical connection to that child, the ground she walks on, the person who makes the decision to send that child to a detention centre in the middle of the Pacific Ocean...

This entry is to let people know about (part of) the Australian Government´s oppression, who are acting in cohorts with the governments and multinational industries that support the oppression of people in Bolivia. In FACT the misguided security here in Cochabamba consists in part of tall dog boxes (on the corners of rich resident blocks) housing security guards. At least some of these boxes (and the guards) belong to Wakenhut, the sinister company that not only knocks down schools in the US to build prisons *his eyes roll in pain everytime he thinks of this insane phenomenon* but also own the contracts to lock up asylum seekers purely for profit.

Sign the petition:

http://www.getup.org.au/index.asp

Wednesday, May 03, 2006

Fanfare too much for Bolivia's "renationalisation"?

Hi, I don's want to wax lyrical about what is no doubt a momentous event however over/underexxagerated the details. Just wanted to let people see this more detailed post from Graciela of The Democratic Center's email list which encourages more research before reacting solely on an emotional level:



I've seen in several places the same misinformation that private companies will be forced to hand over or sell 51% of their shares. To my understanding, that is nowhere in the Decree. The government is only talking about recovering majority control in 5 companies. Three are the capitalized- chaco (exploration/production), andina (exploration/production), and transredes (transportation) which were carved out of YPFB. These were the government's property to begin with before they were handed over to foreign corporations. now the government maintains minority control (around 48%) in these consortiums, and what they're talking about is turning that into majority control. The other company is the petrobras refineries which were YPFB refineries handed over to a consortium of PB and an argentine company by Pres Banzer in 99. The last company is Compania Logistica de Hidrocarburos de Bolivia is a german/peruvian/bolivian consortium that was given over all the pipelines in bolivia in 2000. (it's unclear to me whether the government maintained shares in the refineries and pipelines). THese are the only 5 companies in which the gov't is talking about regaining majority shares, and they all are examples of state giveaways, eg the private investors didn''t invest, they got handed over state assets. And now the gov;t is taking a fraction of that back. The private exploration and production companies will not be affected. So, point is, they're not talking about taking over or seiving assets, or focing sales of shares from private companies.
g

Tuesday, May 02, 2006

I wonder how long it will take for these to fade and be replaced by the new, government sponsored logos promoting safety and responsible driving on the roads. Clearly the previous Bolivian government wasn´t interested in promoting safe public spaces or they wouldn´t have taken sponsorship (I assume most of the roads here are still in public hands) from A BEER COMPANY to advertise on the road! And then to use that money (or bribes) from Pepsi and Taquiña for something other than road maintenance. Looking forward to seeing how Morales takes care of this.




Now, for your viewing pleasure...

The pinball machine on Sesame Street has NUTHIN´ on these beauties!

Weddings, Parties, anything and EVERYthing!



Well if weddings are anything to go by then Cochabamba is on for one and all. Everyone was so happy on this truck and the bride was so proud, being in the centre of it all, that I realised (although I knew this already) that people don´t need limos or carriages or a fancy barrage of cars. Everyone fit on the one vehicle and I tell ya, they were doing it in style! I thought I´d missed them (with my camera lens) when they whizzed past me on Avenida Salamanco near Plaza Colón, but they´d just got back on the truck after taking photos at the Plaza (where many wedding parties get clicked) when I arrived.

Of course, if this was in Melbourne, the cop car across the road (there was one, watching on - I noticed it because I´d not seen one here yet!) would have had something more than a cheer to say...