La Paz I am in.
I arrived this morning, walked to my shithole backpackers that I stayed at last time, remembered the name of the manager, and perhaps therefore, was treated very very well, as he remembered me too! AND he put me in a room that didn't smell of spew this time... Showered after a bus cama from Cochabamba (bed bus where the seats incline aLOT and there's more leg space). Last time I came here by bus I was convinced by a bugger of a bus touter at the Cbba station that a regular bus would be fine for me and my size, and given there were no more bus camas I accepted his opinion, which turned out to be painfully inaccurate. The bus cama on the other hand was very pleasant, not only due to the extra leg room (it was still better for me to stick my legs in the isle) but due to the fact it costs more, there are less screaming babies and, well, to be honest, people were in a better, more comfortable mood. And if I go on I'll realise how elitist my trip was so I'm stopping now.
It's 9.29am This means that in exactly two days and 21 minutes my South American/Bolivian/Cochabamban journey will change tremendously as I'm joined by the one and only Ms. Fiolarola McInnes.
Whee.
La Paz has a not altogether unpleasant smell to it. I mean, aside from the incredible traffic pollution that dirties everything and stinks like a ... well, a deisel tank, it's also got a sweet, incency smell that I remember from last time I was here, but only notice as particular to La Paz this time around. It's a smell that reminds me of an innocent child. Which is strange for all this city's reputation. But perhaps it is just an innocent child, being naughty because everyone expects it to be. Maybe it's the smell of peace, it's namesake.
I also realise that I'm running on high adrenalin because although I should be freezing in the morning La Pazian chill, I only have a t-shirt and jeans on. My fingers are going numb at the keyboard, but my excitement and sense of lots to do in the coming two days is really heating me up.
We'll be here for a few days, before cycling down that most wonderful of roads, you know, the one that kills everybody, to Coroico for navidad - xmas. Then new years at my friend Mauro's place in Caranavi. Both latter places are very jungly low in the Yungas area, but very close to La Paz which is 4500 metres in the sky. Weird.
Gotta go get things ready for the girl.
Chau,
Michael.
Monday, December 18, 2006
Thursday, December 14, 2006
Wednesday, December 13, 2006
Bolivia? Nearly. Brazil? Kinda. Chile? Back up!!
Hmm... This photo is me with no Spanish, no experience in Bolivia, no awareness of the shot being taken and no thermal underwear, pero mira me español ahora!, almost nine months in, now fully aware of the shot (I like shots taken unawares...) and still no thermal underwear, but I haven't been so cold as I was that morning around 5ish at the Geysers del Tatio. Bolivia's just on the other side of those mountains (apparently)! Kinda looks like I'm about to walk there by myself. How roschmlantic.
My friend, Constance from France(who I met on the various tours we both found ourselves on) just sent it to me, and she also sent me some juicy news about a new Brazilian villa she's bought! And you, yes, YOU can rent it at will! Here's the message she sent me...
Hello,
As some of you may already know, my friends - Xavier, Aurelien, Lorine, and I, have fallen in love with Brazil.
We now have a house in Taiba, a small village in the North of Fortaleza. It is a beautifully equiped house with 6 rooms - all with en-suite bathrooms, a swimming pool, a large tropical garden and a veranda with a barbecue...just 3min walk to the beach.
Taiba is sunny and hot all year round because it is so close to the Equator and it is only 7 hours away from Europe (Rio is 11H30 flight..)
There are many things to do in Taiba from Kite surfing to surfing, fishing, sandboarding, lots of lovely beaches, excursions to Jericocoara (one of the most preserved and beautiful place in Brazil) etc...
If you are interested in renting our house for your holidays please send us a email at villataiba@hotmail.com and we can send you more information on tariffs and availability.
Yours,Constance Rouget-Luchaire
That's all for today. Fiona will be sending her first guest blog entry in ... 7 DAYS!! *teeth grit and mouth widens sideways to stop himself from fainting in the utter, bewilderingly blind excitement!!!*
And GOD I look good in that photo...
Michael.
Tuesday, December 12, 2006
Anybody heard of the Hershey squirts?
Rupert sent me this article (with his son featured). Be careful ye Melbournians if heading to the smelly-poo beaches this summer.
http://www.news.com.au/heraldsun/story/0,21985,20904153-2862,00.html
In Bolivian news, presidents attending the Community of Nations Summit have been sending their best regards to Michael McMahon after a harrowing few days of dissentry. Although on the mend McMahon reports varying levels of discomfort, and some scary moments on the street, as he timidly shuffles to his classes, hoping that things don't go horribly wrong while explaining the subjunctive - a word that always gives him the shits.
Completely unrelated, this idea of Bolivians being generally unreliable is gaining credibility levels over and above any thouhts of my being racist. But it turns out that I'm also quite used to it, and further, can understand it and enjoy it to some extent. As apposed to being "unreliable" as such it stems from a culture of pleasantry and good will. More on that later.
Bedtime for Bonzo.
Michael.
http://www.news.com.au/heraldsun/story/0,21985,20904153-2862,00.html
In Bolivian news, presidents attending the Community of Nations Summit have been sending their best regards to Michael McMahon after a harrowing few days of dissentry. Although on the mend McMahon reports varying levels of discomfort, and some scary moments on the street, as he timidly shuffles to his classes, hoping that things don't go horribly wrong while explaining the subjunctive - a word that always gives him the shits.
Completely unrelated, this idea of Bolivians being generally unreliable is gaining credibility levels over and above any thouhts of my being racist. But it turns out that I'm also quite used to it, and further, can understand it and enjoy it to some extent. As apposed to being "unreliable" as such it stems from a culture of pleasantry and good will. More on that later.
Bedtime for Bonzo.
Michael.
Sunday, December 10, 2006
Drowing in political action, if not the floods...
Well, it happened again.
Just as the city's hundreds of cleaners swept and hosed, pumped and scooped (the majority of the workforce chola-based - or as it appeared to me) the mess left by last Saturday's incredible deluge of rain and wind, and the city was brought back to a reasonably clean state, good old Pachamama decided to let us know that our silly efforts aren't necessarily enough. More rain Thursday, the underpasses were totally full this time (as apposed to 3/4 full last time - not that that made any difference for the cars) the hail, banked up on each of our window sills and doorways like snow, gave the impression that the water flowing through the streets was frozen. As it apparently turned out Pachamama may not have shown her fury so heavily had some sleepy dope sitting at some watery lever opened that lever to let the flooding waters flow into the river instead of the streets... an error by a civil servant... who would have guessed!
Talking of flooding the streets, streets have been flooded with Military Police, security, riot police (well, riot police or not, they always look like they're ready for it) and the army, all making sure I can't get a word in edgeways or even have a quiet drink at Cerebritos with Hugo and Evo, just to toss around a few ideas... They're both here in Cochas, along with maybe a dozen other heads of state for The Community of Nations South American Summit, which is still happening having started, I think, on Friday. I hear that Hugo brought his own chefs because he has fears of poisoning... silly, paranoid fellow you may scoff, and in a sympathetic country no less, but on the other hand Che trusted the Bolivians and look what happened to him! And as I reflect now, I wonder if the cleanups would have been so promptly actioned had the Summit been elsewhere... The streets have been particularly clean lately...
I met a friend from Red Tinku at my regular lunch spot during the week, wearing a pass around her neck, a pass to the Social Summit happening at the same time, in which Tinku are heavily involved. I hear that thousands will attend that little shindig as well. My understanding is that both Summits have at their root, to varying degrees to concepts of international integration, sovereignty and the solidarity of the people, and the Social Summit will be addressed by some of the visiting leaders from the Summit with all the fatigues. A positive process I am sure has rarely been repeated in any other area of the world. What will eventuate? Vamos a ver, as usual.
"Dos/Tres! Dos/Tres! Dos/Tres! Dos/Tres! Dos/Tres!", they shouted on Saturday afternoon as hundreds of "2/3" printed white shirts marched down Avenida America while Arthur and I were doing our market shopping (why were we not there in the morning as usual? I woke too late, and Arthur was holding his stomach, hoping not to have to make an urgent run to the loo - poor bugger is constantly sick in Bolivia and is feeling like he shouldn't even be here with his tender constitution...). Anyway, we couldn't work out the "Dos/Tres!" idea and I chucklingly agreed with Arthur's certainty that protesters in Bolivia, having run out of words to chant, had settled for numbers now... bloody funny and a crudely tuned comment on the amount of Bolivia's protests.
As it turns out the protest was being led by the conservative parties apposed to the Morales government's move to have all bills passed only by majority vote (50%) and not a two thirds vote (Dos/Tres!), as stated in the constitution... (is it in the constitution? Sometimes I'll write things here that are either unconfirmed, or just complete shit, in the hope that someone will prove to me they're reading my blog!). Although the two thirds sounds like a good idea, it will surely stop up the process government bills, decisions of which I'd like to see pass quickly and smoothly, but on the other hand the opposition seats in parliament were voted in by the people... (I think?!) and concensus decision making is on my agenda, and should be part of the process. I'd make the bet though that if Podemos were in power they'd be happy for their constitution to state a 50% bill passage...
Well, a watery and political week in Cochabamba. Watery politics isn't that common in this continent. More happening than in recent weeks - something to keep my mind off the next ten days' agony. 10 DAYS! Foder! EVERYone's very excited about meeting Fiona.
Good opinion polls to you,
Michael.
p.s. Oh! And Augusto Pinochet couldn't make the Summit, even if he was invited... he's dead. And good riddance to bad guacamole I say.
Just as the city's hundreds of cleaners swept and hosed, pumped and scooped (the majority of the workforce chola-based - or as it appeared to me) the mess left by last Saturday's incredible deluge of rain and wind, and the city was brought back to a reasonably clean state, good old Pachamama decided to let us know that our silly efforts aren't necessarily enough. More rain Thursday, the underpasses were totally full this time (as apposed to 3/4 full last time - not that that made any difference for the cars) the hail, banked up on each of our window sills and doorways like snow, gave the impression that the water flowing through the streets was frozen. As it apparently turned out Pachamama may not have shown her fury so heavily had some sleepy dope sitting at some watery lever opened that lever to let the flooding waters flow into the river instead of the streets... an error by a civil servant... who would have guessed!
Talking of flooding the streets, streets have been flooded with Military Police, security, riot police (well, riot police or not, they always look like they're ready for it) and the army, all making sure I can't get a word in edgeways or even have a quiet drink at Cerebritos with Hugo and Evo, just to toss around a few ideas... They're both here in Cochas, along with maybe a dozen other heads of state for The Community of Nations South American Summit, which is still happening having started, I think, on Friday. I hear that Hugo brought his own chefs because he has fears of poisoning... silly, paranoid fellow you may scoff, and in a sympathetic country no less, but on the other hand Che trusted the Bolivians and look what happened to him! And as I reflect now, I wonder if the cleanups would have been so promptly actioned had the Summit been elsewhere... The streets have been particularly clean lately...
I met a friend from Red Tinku at my regular lunch spot during the week, wearing a pass around her neck, a pass to the Social Summit happening at the same time, in which Tinku are heavily involved. I hear that thousands will attend that little shindig as well. My understanding is that both Summits have at their root, to varying degrees to concepts of international integration, sovereignty and the solidarity of the people, and the Social Summit will be addressed by some of the visiting leaders from the Summit with all the fatigues. A positive process I am sure has rarely been repeated in any other area of the world. What will eventuate? Vamos a ver, as usual.
"Dos/Tres! Dos/Tres! Dos/Tres! Dos/Tres! Dos/Tres!", they shouted on Saturday afternoon as hundreds of "2/3" printed white shirts marched down Avenida America while Arthur and I were doing our market shopping (why were we not there in the morning as usual? I woke too late, and Arthur was holding his stomach, hoping not to have to make an urgent run to the loo - poor bugger is constantly sick in Bolivia and is feeling like he shouldn't even be here with his tender constitution...). Anyway, we couldn't work out the "Dos/Tres!" idea and I chucklingly agreed with Arthur's certainty that protesters in Bolivia, having run out of words to chant, had settled for numbers now... bloody funny and a crudely tuned comment on the amount of Bolivia's protests.
As it turns out the protest was being led by the conservative parties apposed to the Morales government's move to have all bills passed only by majority vote (50%) and not a two thirds vote (Dos/Tres!), as stated in the constitution... (is it in the constitution? Sometimes I'll write things here that are either unconfirmed, or just complete shit, in the hope that someone will prove to me they're reading my blog!). Although the two thirds sounds like a good idea, it will surely stop up the process government bills, decisions of which I'd like to see pass quickly and smoothly, but on the other hand the opposition seats in parliament were voted in by the people... (I think?!) and concensus decision making is on my agenda, and should be part of the process. I'd make the bet though that if Podemos were in power they'd be happy for their constitution to state a 50% bill passage...
Well, a watery and political week in Cochabamba. Watery politics isn't that common in this continent. More happening than in recent weeks - something to keep my mind off the next ten days' agony. 10 DAYS! Foder! EVERYone's very excited about meeting Fiona.
Good opinion polls to you,
Michael.
p.s. Oh! And Augusto Pinochet couldn't make the Summit, even if he was invited... he's dead. And good riddance to bad guacamole I say.
Tuesday, December 05, 2006
Sloth, and other sins...
http://www.theage.com.au/news/health/the-sublime-state-of-sloth/2006/11/23/1164777697800.html?page=fullpage#contentSwap1
A worthy pursuit.
As TISM noted sagaciously - I'm interested in apathy.
And can anybody guess (without flogging it around on the blog site!!) who this horoscope entry refers to (aside from me)?
CapricornYour patience with a flighty friend could be running thin. It may seem as though this pal is more interested in looking good to newcomers than in honoring old promises. Give your friend a wake-up call today, and remind her or him of your history -- and about some important obligations. This conversation will alert you to one or two new facts that could explain recent behavior -- but do these facts excuse that behavior? Don't fall for tall tales.
Suffice to say, I'm meeting with him/her today... I love my horoscope. It's all true!!
A worthy pursuit.
As TISM noted sagaciously - I'm interested in apathy.
And can anybody guess (without flogging it around on the blog site!!) who this horoscope entry refers to (aside from me)?
CapricornYour patience with a flighty friend could be running thin. It may seem as though this pal is more interested in looking good to newcomers than in honoring old promises. Give your friend a wake-up call today, and remind her or him of your history -- and about some important obligations. This conversation will alert you to one or two new facts that could explain recent behavior -- but do these facts excuse that behavior? Don't fall for tall tales.
Suffice to say, I'm meeting with him/her today... I love my horoscope. It's all true!!
Saturday, December 02, 2006
Goodbye Emily...
Another fleeting moment in my life passes before my eyes in the form of one of those hastily developed but seemingly concrete friendships as a result of international alien solidarity. Our housemate, Emily, is a treasure and I'll miss her as she goes off travelling before being home for xmas... I get so jealous of my fellow visitors being home for xmas.
Anyhow, we had a party last night to purge the house of the pain of her non-presence. And for cultural accordance, we had a toga theme... cos, you know, that's what indigenous people wear around here...
Of course we took the notion seriously and wore nothing underneath our sexy bedsheets... bother - I must get non-seethrough (and rose-less!) bedsheets!
While a downpour of liquid (of an alcoholic kind) was thrashing those inside, out in the street, a downpour was causing havoc of another kind... Some schmuck probably didn't have the chance to make the stupid decision to drive through 6 feet of water, given the speeding and drunken driving that you'll invariably find on Cochabamban roads... You can just make out the car (which was completely submerged before I ran to get my camera) being winched out of one of the underpasses near our house. We thought it was strange that a bit of a storm would keep traffic off the road... The river running right alongside wasn't flooded of course... Not sure what the problem was that caused the deluge (lack of precautionary measures no doubt, again) but it's still being pumped as I speak, 14 hours later. Reminds me of my fears when I passed through the Burnleigh Tunnel in Melbourne...
Acción de Gracias.
Acción de Gracias. A formidable event in any well-educated mind. But with a US citizen in the house, one who can give a keen critique of the entire history of US aggression, both outside and in, I decided to humour her and help prepare Thanksgiving dinner... and indeed from the outset found it a completely pleasant experience! Especially my sucess with the Pumpkin Pie and my close relationship to the dead bird (pictured). Present are two Bolivians and three gringos. I think we were supposed to slaughter all the native Americans after dinner, for historical accuracy, but they're all so damned cute!
Sorry about the grainy pics... And yes, those are marshmellows on mashed sweet potato of course.
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