Sunday, April 30, 2006

Couldn´t help meself: The Cbban Water Wars Feb - Apr 2000


© 2000, Tom Kruse (hope Tom doesn´t mind... it´s only a little ol´ blog...)

Me, all about me... oh, and McDonald´s... where... are they...?

Well, tomorrow is month one out of the country. *fanfare and all sorts of celebratory this´s and thats* This is interesting - sort of. It doesn´t seem like a whole month, and at the same time feels like an eternity, depending on what I´m thinking of at the time; the excitements along the way, or the missing of you all.

It has been suggested that I go out and celebrate somehow, perhaps have a beer. Well, not a bad option. The beer in Bolivia is pretty good... well, (rephrases) there is beer in Bolivia that is pretty good. And this is surprising given the Lonely Planet´s suggestion (which may be correct) that when Bolivians drink in celebration they don´t concern themselves with the taste and just get on with the job of total enebriation. It´s not exactly the image I´ve gotten so far, except with the fellow yesterday outside of ... hmm... (I forget the name... was I drunk??) a drinking establishment on The Prado here in Cbba, who had to be carried to a cab after falling off his chair. Perhaps I´ll have an ice cream instead...

Either way, Huari is the beer of choice here, even though Tequeña beer supports every event and has it´s sign in front of every store in the city (that grates). The Huari seems the underdog and that´s my choice for a sunny Saturday afternoon cerveza.

One thing I can´t do to celebrate in Cochabamba (or anywhere in Bolivia) is frequent McDonald´s family wrest-or-wants. On November the 30th 2002, the stupid clown with his blood stained red nose (I believe it was originally brown) fled the country that day, amidst howls of misled, hoohas wanting to guzzle their last watered down Coke, or strengthen the loving stranglehold the cholesterol has on their heart (those that could afford it of course. I´m surprised to see that CNN actually quoted an indigenous woman after first hooting about the sadness of Ronald´s passing. Get a load of this:

But not all were sad to see McDonald's go.
Bolivia is a country with nearly 60 percent indigenous population. McDonald's catered mostly to the other 40 percent who had the economic means to enter the restaurant.
Although McDonald's prides itself as an economical and friendly place, most of Bolivia's indigenous population had never tried a hamburger for lack of money or lack of welcome.
"I've wanted to try the food but I never have," said Esther Choque, an indigenous woman dressed in colorful robes waiting for a bus outside a McDonald's restaurant.
"The closest I ever came was one day when a rain shower fell and I climbed the steps to keep dry by the door. Then they came out and shooed my away. Said I was dirtying the place.
"Why would I care if McDonald's leaves if they do such bad things?" - copyright 2002 The Associated Press.

Again, I´m surprised. Could I be too cynical to suggest that McDonald´s saw their own image in the teargas that filled the streets in 2000 and continues to threaten as people become more and more aware of what their rights are? The writing´s on the wall, literally. I, for one, am happy to be here.

Meet me at the heladeria,

Ciao.

Thursday, April 27, 2006

Man! You´ve GOT to see these Cbban buses! They´re great! They look like they´ve come straight out of a Mod Squad remake. So colourful and psychadelic.(and to tell you the truth, they´re pretty efficient, or at least they´ve come regularly when I need them.) They often have messages like "the Express of Love" or maybe something religious at the top of the windscreen. Imust download these photos again soon and show you some of my newies.

Wednesday, April 26, 2006

Cholitas, and my new home.

The taxis continue to blast, but not for me. I´m not at the centre of everyone´s universe, except when kids, (nay, most people who have someone to nudge and suggest that they look) are wide eyed or snickering at my height. Yes, I´ve said it before but it´s so constant that you all have to deal with it just the same as me.

I realise (or was reminded) that during the telling of my experience of the bus ride to Cochabamba I referred to the woman, who at midnight was working hard for her family making food for tired and hungry travellers, as a "bowler hat", indicating a possible lack of respect. Not cool. Regardless of my time restrictions I should be aware of my comments especially coming from a very VERY privilaged position.

The collective name for the women who wear what are similar to bowler hats (but higher and usually not fitting the head so that a strap must be worn), are Cholas or Cholitas. The entire dress I´m sure you´ll recognise including the hat which is about as striking as the beautiful striped, coloured cloth that is used as a carry-all, including for their kids. The dress was imposed on them by the Spanish king in the 1700s and the Viceroy of Toledo (holy toledo?) insisted on the part in the hair. It seems that the women have reclaimed the formerly imposed dress, and now wear their ensemble with pride (and warmth, given the amount of layers they wear!)

What is also most impressive about their appearance is the incredibly long hair plaits that they wear. It must be a real job to keep them looking as good as they do.

It seems, as I´ve mentioned in previous missives, that the tradition will not live long past the current young generation, except perhaps for in ceremonial reenactments, for many young indigenous women have taken hold of western ideals with gusto, although this isn´t always the case. I´ve seen the occasional young twentysomething with the traditional dress and plaits, but not usually the hat. They stand out because I haven´t seen that many.

I´m beginning to enjoy my time in Cochabamba more immensely (as a group of teenage musicians play their way merrily past this city cafe) with my growing Español, my familiarity with the streets and local people.

I have a job! I teach two women English who need it for their work in a seemingly ethical Swedish development organisation. I´m finding out more about it through their "homework" in English talking technically about their work. That´s three mornings a week, and there´s more to come I think.

More soon, and don´t forget to breath!!

Michael.

Feeling the spirit.

I´ve been in Cochabamba for over a week now and feel much more used to the various surprises that keep coming into consciousness. Most of the surprises relate to the poverty that surrounds me, in contrast to the wealth. I´ve studied, and am trained in this sort of stuff but never experienced it in such magnitude first hand. One can see the connection between this immense divide in wealth and the political dramas that have unfolded here in recent years (and still continue). What is amazing to me is this: here are people who have been so oppressed for so many years that when it comes to survivial there´s no choice but to fight, for your family, for yourself, and your country, if not just for what is right. That makes sense, but then at the same time, the length and extent to which the oppression has existed should have snuffed the spirit of the people long ago, and sure many people are only able to live day to day if that. But people rise, and people resist, and stand and insist on justice and a change, a chance. They have pride and power in their struggle. It´s exciting and an honour to be witness to it all. The water wars, which I have been researching, is a situation never before realised as clearly in the struggle against greedy foreign powers and the fight for basic rights, like water. I love the feeling of resistance and passion in the Plaza 14 Septiembre, named after the declaration of independence from Spanish rule that led to the creation of Bolivia (I think I´ve already mentioned it) and think, maybe romantically, that I can feel the energy left from the blockades and shutdowns that forced the local governor´s resignation and the repeal of the water contract from Betchel (boo, hiss).

I meet with a fellow from the Democracy Center tomorrow, who played a big part in making the issue (and others) an international concern. I want to volunteer with them, although they seem pretty popular and booked up volunteer-wise till early 2007! I sold myself well enough for them to meet with me though...

More soon, live without dead time,

Michael.

Tuesday, April 25, 2006




Right, a more expensive internet cafe but one that allows me to download more than one image at a time!! Hooray.

The first picci, on my way in that dastardly 4WD and heading uphill (to say the least) from 2450 metres to around 4500mtres over a couple of days, and making some close contacts, and even friends on the way, and placing the ever placating coca leaves into my cheek. These subdue the effects of altitude sickness, while also relieving almost all other issues... a bit like grog. Kidding - it´s a natural product, straight from the plant and dried. It doesn´t make you sick or stupid and is far less dangerous than chewing on an asprin.

The next is a photo of ... a mountain in front of ... um... a laguna, on the way to the Salar de Uyuni. Just put that there to say that ... I took that photo!!

The next is NOT me, unfortunately, riding around the continent all packed up. Maybe later in the year...

More soon,

Love Miguel.

This is my San Pedro de Atacama, with the dormant volcano Licancabur (at 5,916 metres) dominating the Andean landscape. Licancabur means ‘village hill’, and it was venerated by the Incas, who carried out ceremonies and left offerings in the crater of its top. I really felt at home here, but then again, there were lots of English speakers around to make me feel that way.
Here´s that security image, brought to you by Pepsi Cola. Thanks Pepsi for making our city such a safe place... (don´t miss that subtle sarcasm)

Monday, April 24, 2006

"What´s a frisbee?" or "What´s a pedestrian?"


Hey all. First of all, here´s a couple of photos. First is the frisbee sessions on the million mile Ultimate field on the salt fields of Uyuni (about 1.5 weeks ago now). The dog didn´t get the gist of what was going on, so not a scratch (from the dog at least - the rocky nothingness of the middle of nowhere brought some new terrain to the frisbee´s countenance.) The second is my first full day in Cochabamba last week (I´ve been here a week!) where I discovered that security is the number one priority for most Cbbinos, brought to you by Pepsi Cola. There´s so many images I want to share with you all, and some images that are definitely only to be understood by individuals. All coming soon! But for now...

Right, here it is... my bitch about the traffic. I know you think you all have seen the worst traffic conditions in the world (India, for example... ) and you may be right but I haven´t been to India and all I can comment on is the Cbbino experience...

1. There are pedestrian crossings everywhere... but at NO time does a pedestrian have right of way (I think that´s the official word!)

2. There are ramps at the ends of some crossings clearly marked with the sign suggesting that it´s for people with disabilities. Now I reckon that any person with a disability who needs such a ramp are going to be in the poo just contemplating crossing some of these roads, no matter how easily they can get up the ramp (which is at at least (generously) a 35 degree angle).

3. NObody uses their indicators... no. That´s not true. I have been surprised to see a few examples, but they only stand out now because they´re so rare!

4. NObody wears their seatbelts. And I mean nobody. I´ve looked around!

5. EVERYbody (which may not really be EVerybody) is in a hurry when they´re in their car. The tooting is maddening (actually I´m getting used to it. And I worked out why so many cars were blaring their horn at me even when I was well out of the way, or even when on the footpath! - there are more taxis here than internet cafes, so the competition is enormous and therefore they toot just to make sure I know they´re there if I wanted one and accidentally happen to be looking the wrong way, like at my coffee inside the coffee shop!)

6. Now this is an indication that I´m not overly sensitive: People cross themselves in prayer when they get to a particularly dodgy part of the road network!! - passengers on buses, fair enough, but the driver!! Man, if you´re not confident that you´ll get through it, you shouldn´t be driving the damn thing.

7. There are no roadworks here, or at least none that can keep up with the incredibly poor state of the roads. People drive on the wrong side of the road when the other side is particularly unsafe (because driving into the path of oncoming traffic is just fine...)

8. The cops (and this is a much bigger problem than just for traffic) knock off work at 6pm!!! The main police station is still open but there´s NO police action on the street. Now many of you know how I get a little nervous just walking by a cop, but this is much more nerve racking! (There are, however, friendly enough security guards on almost every street corner after 6 (at least in the areas that I frequent at night) with their dogs (or their CHILDREN!! - I must say, it´s quite endearing to see the guy with his truncheon and gun building up a little Lego house with his daughter while it´s "quiet time" on the streets...) and when they are on duty, they don´t care.

9. It seemed like there was NO rules to roundabouts (just jump in and hope for the best?), but it seems now that you stop for entering traffic when you´re ON the roundabout already... or something...

10. And I know this isn´t fair but... COCHABAMBINOS ALL DRIVE ON THE WRONG SIDE OF THE ROAD!!!

Sunday, April 23, 2006

O.k. From the top...


20 Abril 2006

O.k. Everyone, from the top...
Hi all. I´m just giving you a look at some photos very quickly. I won´t wax lyrical (like at the rally) about the advent of my blog. Everyone just accept it´s importance and we´ll leave it at that.The first 3 photos are from Santiago where I landed, some from the ... yes... tours around San Pedro de Atacama, and others from my first forays into the hallowed land of Bolivia, and they´re also from my new camera, so you don´t get to see the New Zealand Airport (forshame!) or my first sighting of the South American continent...But you do see a rare sign in Santiago - a Bicycles Only sign down a quiet street (which is also a rare occurance).And you do see part of a great action in Santiago, near Los Heroes Train Station, an indigenous rally demanding the release of political prisoners arrested at another peaceful rally to oppose mining on indig. land. I was interviewed on this day by an English speaking local doco maker, and was encouraged to wax lyrical about our own "sorry" state of indigenous affairs.And you do see what goes on aside the presidential palace of the new Chilean President Bachelet. Everyone gets to see photos of the palace and the guards (who posed for me, nice guardies, good guardies...) and the ... palacebut these police cars are truely fascinating! The cages might resist all sorts of attacks, but those from cameras are dealt with by the officers, like the one on his way up to me in the background... he wagged his finger at me, I expostulated that I was an Australian tourist and what was wrong with taking an innocent photo, he charaded his foot grinding my camera into the dirty cement, but instead of the camera being broken, the conversation was massacred as we chatted about the necessity of such measures to resist the rabbelous masses.And you do see why exactly I got those new moon boots. I actually made it to the moon (as per the email ranting about Chile´s advanced space program. Moon Valley is as surreal as the prehistoricity (word!) of Geysers del Tatio, all around my beloved San Pedro de Atacama, the quaint little tourist village doing it´s best (and a darn good job!) to hold onto the history and culture that gives depth to the "been there, done that"ness of the swarms of cameras.And you do see my favourite place in all the world thus far (except for home) on Isle de Pescado or Fish Island. We got up to see the sunrise over the Salt Lakes (behind me). This island is literally covered in such cactus action and the horizons are either the montañas or non-existent.And I´ve just realised why the internet access here is only 2 Bolivianos por hora, I´ve been waiting for 4 photos to upload to the blog for most of the hour now... So you may not get all the photos... more soon.Love while sitting on a geyser, your Bolivian Correspondent.

Friday, April 21, 2006

O.k. Everyone, from the top...



Now how´s this for a horoscope reading! (just to blow my own pan-flute.

CapricornWhether you help your elderly neighbor carry groceries or you volunteer to paint the local grade school, you always feel best if you're giving of yourself. There are thousands of opportunities to volunteer, and by taking any one of them, you'll be making a big difference in your community. And this will make a big difference in how you feel about yourself.

AND I just helped a guy wheel his enormous habitación-sized mobile candy store up an awkward curb (read: ANY Cochabambino curb!)

AND it´s not so bad here in Cbba, and my house is certainly modern enough for my head to deal with, but anything older than 20 years and I´m in trouble... (see photo, the one on the left, indicating that I can now upload more than one photo per post...) and apologies for the sideways glances at you all, but there´s nothing I can do about the horizontal images...