Sunday, January 28, 2007

I knew it!

Fiona and I have just spent the darnedestly relaxing 24 hours in Torata, a small town 30-odd minutes drive from Cbba, which is perpetually tranquilo, and has few, if any western tourists at any one time. It's famous for being the birthplace of one of (!) Bolivia's mad presidents from the late 1800s (his palace is on display just out of town, but we didn't have the time nor inclination to see the grandiose pomposity of its architecture before leaving). We went to the artisania complex on the other side of town where the pottery is gorgeous (and the creating of which is like a sensuous dance... and sorry, yes I did think of Ghost) and at times humourously irreverent (e.g. one teapot's spout in the form of a penis and the accompanying milk jug in the shape of a breast. Brilliant!). Photos of pretty streets and seemingly happy people (we asked them!) to follow.
Talking of happy, it seems that the truth is out there... and published! To further add to my (very) informal research on happiness in a poor country, my friend Marty sent me this article about Sydney:


Intellectually bereft, obsessed with money and status ... they must be from Sydney
Brigid Delaney, LondonJanuary 27, 2007


COULD Sydney be the saddest of cities — intellectually bereft, spiritually empty? Are its residents T.S. Eliot's proverbial Hollow Men — heads together but whispering nothing except deadening conversations about the latest movement of the property market or fad diet?
Sydney's culture of the relentless pursuit of property, perfect bodies and status has British psychologist and author Oliver James worried. As part of research for his recently released book, Affluenza, he travelled to seven countries to research the effect of consumerism on happiness.
He found the obsessive pursuit of money and possessions was not buying happiness. The affluenza virus was worst in Sydney, where he found interviewing locals a depressing experience. It was, he said, "the most vacuous of cities. The Dolly Parton of cities in Australia."
Adelaide and Melbourne had a "different vibe" and did not strike James as being as materialistic as Sydney. He had not been to Sydney before and expected a "philistine nation" of "jolly, uncomplicated fun-seekers". Instead, he found a city in thrall to American values and a puritan work ethic that robbed life of joy and meaning. Middle-class Sydney, he writes, is "packed with career-obsessed workaholics". When they are not working the longest hours in the developed world, they pursue perfect bodies through joyless fitness regimes, or obsess about property prices. Always, they are looking around anxiously, in the hope that others aren't doing better than them.
"(It was) full of people who place a high value on money, professional status and appearance," he said. The result? Sydneysiders have a "greater risk of suffering from mental illness — depression and anxiety".
"They (Sydneysiders) were like the tin man from the Wizard of Oz. They had no idea of the point of their lives, other than to get rich." James noted Bureau of Statistics figures highlighting a rise in depression that coincided with a bullish property market, which caused stress and anxiety — particularly among young Australians.
While Britain has "its Posh and Becks", — obvious examples of conspicuous consumption — cultural differences, including a more entrenched class system, has put the brakes on the spread of consumerism in Britain.
"The British, compared to the US or Aussies, are less easily convinced that money will get you further. The British elite have been around for an awfully long time and there is not the crassness of the Australian rich."
While he despaired about Sydney, he found "affluenza" was not as prevalent outside the Western world. "Shanghai has the virus pretty badly but the vaccine is Confucius. Your best is good enough." But in Sydney, a strong materialistic culture means that no one ever quite feels like they can "measure up". His advice to Sydneysiders? "Start reading." Starting with his book, perhaps?
And it appears the Big Day Out has raised its overpriced, overinflated head again already. My other friend, Paul Hogan,who sends me regular critiques and updates about John Howard and the legacy he has happily inherited, sent me these: funny if not so depressingly accurate:

All well otherwise. Going to spend the rest of the Sunday arvo with a Taquiña on the balcony to offset all the culture we just absorbed...

Love to all, Michael (and the ever-about-to-present-you-with-her-first-guest-blog Fiona).

Tuesday, January 23, 2007

Tut tut, looks like rain...

*backtracks shamelessly*



So, we rode from La Cumbre to Coroico on December 23. It looked like rain as we started out. And it was. It pissed down, quite frankly. The gods were against us, from every religion (they went from jealousy to pure smite). Some of them, however, reconsidered their cruelty and decided to blow off the cloud in our face at times to afford us some spekky views.
Fiona agreeing with gusto with another rider that brakes are a good thing. Scarily enough, this opinion wasn't held too sternly by the operators of the ride, whose bike's brakes weren't very comfortable. In fact one rider's brakes failed completely as he rode slowly around a corner, the drop below looking convincingly like many hundred metres. He survived but said more than once "If you pay less, you get less". Our brakes didn't fail, but our chains did. Both of our chains fell off. Granted, in the heavy rain, but nevertheless...

The most dangerous part of the ride wasn't from the buses and trucks that used to scrape each other's side panels trying to pass one another (now relegated to the much less excitingly named "new road") but from the perillous rain and cloud. At times we couldn't see the chilling 1000 metre drops from the edges of the road. This is what Gravity Assisted Mountain Biking said about the wet season:


VERY IMPORTANT NOTE: Unfortunately, due to the arrival of the rains, our last ride of the 2006 season was Saturday December 9th. While it certainly is possible to ride to Coroico down the “World’s Most Dangerous Road” in late-December, January, and early February, we think that the heavy rain, mud, rock-slides, poor visibility and reduced braking performance make it far too dangerous and too uncomfortable. With more than eight years of experience and many thousands of descents down this road during the dry season, it is our professional opinion that it would be irresponsibly dangerous to take clients down this road during the rainy season. REMEMBER that people have died biking the “World's Most Dangerous Road ” (NONE WITH GRAVITY) and that there are NO MIMIMUM SAFETY STANDARDS here in Bolivia for biking tours. As such, while Gravity will not ride during these two months and uses that time to completely overhaul the bikes, travel around and re-charge our batteries for the next season, other less responsible companies may offer the tour preferring a quick buck to your safety.


So, there you go. We're goddamn crazy-arsed legends.

As an aside-ish, buses in Bolivia often display the darnedest things. A common theme is Jesus and his ilk with some seemingly random biblical quote, but sometimes you get a hell of a surprise like this one half way down the *doom doom doooooom* "Death ROOOOoooad":

Note that the American Eagle is tearing its talons through the flag that represents such opposing views of both the depicted rebels - Che Guevara and Osama Bin Laden. The side of the bus was full on too, with some quote about freedom or some such thing...



Nearing the end of the ride, soaked to the bone, muddy faced and still alive, you can see us posing on either side of Coroico, a little town nestled in the hills at 1,600 metres but we rode to Yolosa at 1,100 metres (from 4,700 metres. Goodness!).

Coroico is where we stayed for Christmas, the most incredibly romantic open air hut with views... More piccis to come.

Love,

Michael and (in a totally not here, but quickly being overwhelmed in her new Spanish classes kind of way) Fiona.

Thursday, January 18, 2007

Quality on Idol? That's stretching it a bit... (get it?)

http://www.realitytvmagazine.com/blog/2007/01/anna_kearns_the.html

Just a link to let people know that I'm not totally out of the American Idol loop now I'm in Bolivia (cos I was sooooo into it when I was in Australia).

This woman is all over the Marfan email list. We all reckon she's got it. What a great awareness raiser! (Hang on! Is that me being all pro-American Idol?... bugger).

Michael.

Sunday, January 14, 2007

Death road, death of the Incas, and death in Cochabamba

Well!!!

What a ride!

Funny, I just checked my horrorscope and it says this:

Capricorn

You are very insightful right now, and your front door is a likely stop along the way for people who are looking for answers. You'll be quite in demand today, by folks who simply want to compare notes and by folks who need major life help. Yet the tone of your day will not be filled with hopelessness, crisis or sadness. It will be all about connecting with other people. There will be a lot of laughter and bonding.
Realize that life is a crazy ride.

Yep. See the link with the "ride" thing... yep.

Hmm... My last blog entry was some time ago and that coincides pretty well with the long-awaited arrival in Bolivia of one hell of a critical part of my life - Fiona.

She is well, in short and shall be guest blogging soon. She likes my new house in Cochabamba, and is looking forward to long days of Spanish lessons, Cuban sunsets, and the sweet smell eucalypt to come.

Let's see. Now, as I write, there are three photos downloading from Lake Titicaca, the highest navigable lake in the world at around 4000 metres, and nowhere near when Fiona arrived and over a week before today so those reading will have to do a bit of work chronologically (which is a bloody funny word in the end...)

This is what happened:

I couldn't sleep on December 19... which is pretty unprecedented as far as the "exciting or stressful things keeping Michael awake" category goes. Of course Fiona was arriving the following morning and that event was firmly in the subcategory of "exciting" with a toe or two crossing the line into "stressful" but only those one or two toes...

The idea of having the live music at the airport for Fiona fell directly and without ceremony on it's big fat stupid shaky-concept-in-the-first-place arse. But on the other hand, I loved just being able to just stand there and stare at her all smiles both of us, until she made it into my arms and our lips met with great ceremony, so there you are. It probably turned out for the best in the end.

I was feeling pretty cool being able to show Fiona how to fob off (in Spanish, and in the nicest possible way) taxi drivers wanting to charge us 45 Bolivianos to take us back into town from the very high altitude airport. And the tinge of cucumber was colouring my skin as I confidently arranged our minibus ride for 4B each.


La Paz remained as full of buzzing bits and pieces until our free breakfast at Adventurama from whom we booked our trip to Caroico. After breakfast we hopped their bus to La Cumbre (The Summit - 4700 metres) where the cloud cover and cold were ominous messages from the gods about what was to come as we... RODE BICYCLES DOWN THE MOST DANGEROUS ROAD ON THE ENTIRE PLANET!!!



Actually I have to openly admit to the world that the road should now be called "Formally known as the most dangerous road in the world" as the new, safer road opened up just weeks before our trip, so the 20 odd buses that fall down it's harrowingly gorgeous and gorge-ous drops were not really seen. What an anticlimax...



Hmm... come to think of it, probably should put the ride photos here instead of Titicaca if I'm going to go on about the ride...



So I'll talk about Titicaca first.



As many of you know I have already been to Copacabana, Titicaca and the Isla de Sol with my friends Krista and Sam (who I just realise are back home!! Wow!!! - *Jealousy sets in...*). I was excited to show Fiona the same brilliant scenery and culture that exists on the island and around the lake. The object for me was the Isla del Sol (Island of the Sun from where the Incas believe the sun rose out of the lake. The moon rose out of Isla de la Luna) because that's where the most stunning views are and where the culture is decidedly more interesting perhaps because of it's separation from the mainland.

Anyway, we walked across the top of the island, a ridge for the most part with those views on either side.



Here I am busily discovering the delights of the Inca trail that leads us to the North side of the island - what IS that ... thing... there...??

An absolute treat of a walk (near the north Ruins now) seeing as we walked South side to North, more down than up, and without packs as full as a goog, unlike last time I was here.


Doing my best impression of James Bond, doing the emerging-from-the-water scene with that cucumber hue again... Maybe James Bond with worms... Either way, here I am emerging from the bloody Lake!!! Can you believe!!? And why? Why am I swimming in freezing waters early morning at 4000 odd metres? Because it was my birthday, that's why. So now when I get asked "What did you do on your 34th birthday Michael?" I can say "Oh, nothing much, just WENT FOR A SWIM IN LAKE TITICACA!!!... ahem... and you?" Yep. Should hardly be an aside but given the ego trip of the whole notion, I think I even had a deep spiritual experience in that water... course, could have been the numbness setting in...

Right. More soon. Time to buy sugar and order water. Big chores for a Sunday.

Oh, and for those who've been following the murders, riots, road blocks and general social unrest in Cochabamba that looks very pre-civil war, we're safe and it's settling but vamos a ver. Keep an eye on the news for tall gringos being lynched. A MUCH more comprehensive editorial about this whole shamozzle soon.

Chau.

p.s. the "death" themed title was to be far more detailed and relative to the entry... and it will be. Stay tuned.